4/30/2023 0 Comments Alaska into the wildernessThe next day we travel by bus into the national park itself. Rather than renting a car, we travel to Denali along the Alaska railroad, a slow but magnificent train ride through mountain passes, over rivers and through tiny gold-rush settlements. There are so few areas of real wilderness left in the world that many of us have never seen a sky unscarred by light pollution or vapour trails, or experienced the eerie exhilaration of being alone with nature. It would be delightful to stay longer in such pleasant surroundings, but having seen some of Alaska's coast, Anouchka and I want to go farther inland to see some of the national park. Anouchka is in heaven, and I’m surprised that she is the only young person here - the place seems ideal for families. There are bears here, and bald eagles, and the nearby ocean is teeming with wildlife, including dolphins and sea otters. It is intensely green and luxuriant, thick with ferns and dense with moss. This temperate rainforest is one of the world's most gorgeous and unusual ecosystems. Tutka Bay Lodge offers a variety of activities, including kayaking in the bay, cookery classes, boat trips, pony trekking, yoga and guided walks along the coast and in the surrounding forest. In fact, in spite of my concerns that my active 17-year-old might find the going a little slow, we both find more than enough to keep us happy. My mobile has no reception, and although there is wireless internet at one hotspot in the communal area, neither Anouchka nor I feel remotely tempted to use it. Anouchka's strict vegetarianism proves far easier to accommodate than I had feared. In this land of hunting and fishing, salmon and halibut dominate the local menus, but Tutka cuisine turns out to be imaginative and delicious. Meals are taken communally and the lodge prides itself on the excellence of its chefs. Open only in the summer, it consists of a dozen log cabins overlooking the bay, plus areas for dining and socialising, a sauna hut, an outdoor whirlpool bath and outdoor decks for exercise and relaxation. Not being fans of big hotels, Anouchka and I find this small lodge a perfect place to begin our Alaskan adventure. It’s easy to imagine staying here throughout our trip - there’s plenty to do, and the countryside offers excellent opportunities for hiking and observing the local wildlife.īut we have time for only a quick, yet invigorating mountain hike to shake off the jet lag and to prepare ourselves for the short flight to Homer, from where we travel by water taxi to the first of three very different locations, the quiet and scenic Tutka Bay Lodge. There is a flourishing arts scene, with a wide variety of live music, shows, dancing and theatre. It’s a small but vibrant city, packed with bars, nightclubs and restaurants. We fly out from Heathrow to Seattle and then on to Anchorage, home to most of Alaska’s citizens. We agree that Alaska - with its abundance of wildlife, wide open spaces, hunting, fishing and water sports and a refreshingly casual take on health and safety - may be the answer. Last year, however, my 17-year-old daughter and I decided to try something a little different.īut how can we reconcile our disparate needs? Rest and tranquillity for me Anouchka craves adventure. When facing the prospect of yet another damp English summer, most of us tend to flee to sunnier, more reliable shores.
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